Oslo Visit

This week I was able to take a quick trip up to Oslo to visit fellow Valle scholar Jack Hunter and his family. I took the ferry from Copenhagen, and traveled overnight to arrive in Oslo on a beautiful, clear morning. This was my view from the boat as we cruised into the city.

The first thing we did when I got into Oslo was to walk down to the new opera house on the waterfront, designed by Snohetta. This building has received much attention in the past 2 years for it's public presence, and the fact that you can walk (or roll) from ground level to the top of the building. However, I found that it was especially interesting to see the building in the context of the rest of the city. The second photo here shows a view of the city from the top of the opera house. A large highway separates the city from the waterfront, and the opera house must be accessed via several pedestrian bridges. A majority of the rest of the waterfront remains abandoned, reserved for industry, and inaccessible to the public. This building is very significant for Oslo as a public gateway to the waterfront. I believe it is especially inspirational for Seattle, because we are battling a very similar problem: a disconnected urban waterfront.

The opera house is surprisingly steep, but the variety of textures in the marble make it easy to walk all over the building. Even Samuel walked most of the way up! Though, railings are used more sparingly here than in the states, so small children need to be kept close.

This was my first glimpse of young Samuel in a few months, and he's become very mature since I last saw him: fashionable in skinny red jeans, with a taste for dense rye bread, cured meats, and European cheese. Samuel kept Jack busy by running up and down the ramp to the water after our picnic lunch.

The interior of the opera house is also lovely. The path up to the seating is full of comfortable places to cozy up with friends and a glass of wine. The railings even come equipped with a mini rail to prevent drinks from falling over the edge!

Another highlight of the Oslo visit was a stop at the new Oslo School of Architecture, a recently remodeled factory block along a riverfront park. The remodel was done by Jarmund/Vigsnaes Architecture, and incorporates a nice rooftop/courtyard green space.

My experience of Oslo was very different than I expected. I imagined a more unified, medieval town center like most other European cites, but instead I found a city that seems to have grown in spurts. It can feel quaint on one block and grungy on the next. I found many odd juxtapositions of old and new, with many parallels to Seattle (disconnected waterfront, awkward pedestrian bridges, places with very rapid development...). All in all, I found Oslo to be full of surprises, and worth the time it would take to become accustomed to the city.

I also enjoyed some Sverre Fehn, though a side trip to Hamar and the Hedmarksmuseet was dedicated more thoroughly to his work.

And, some electric Buddy cars which are so tiny that they can park perpendicular to the curb. I also saw some Think brand cars that are made from a recyclable milk jug-type plastic that is reminiscent of playground structures.

Last but not least, the Vigeland park, devoted to Vigeland's sculptural works.